10. Samoa

After four days at sea we have just had two port days and so I'm only now having a chance to catch up.

As I alluded to in an earlier post, the crossing the equator ceremony finally took place, albeit 24 hours late. Much gunge was poured and many eggs were cracked over heads and as a result, all Pollywogs are now Shellbacks. It was also the only time I've ever seen a captain, deputy captain, chief engineer and head of the hotel department all end up in the swimming pool fully clothed. Well done to all and a massive plus for guest relations.

We reached Apia, the capital of Samoa on Saturday April 13...it's sometimes known as Western Samoa but this is very un-PC in these modern times. There was a welcoming committee waiting on the pier consisting of girls and guys dancing, drummers drumming, men performing the Hakka and even Miss Samoa herself with a solo hula. 

We hadn't really known how to spend our time in Samoa and so left a decision on sightseeing to the last moment, managing to squeeze onto a tour which included some cultural experiences together with a swim. I don't often opt for anything described as "cultural", but given that you can't ever watch too many dusky Polynesian maidens hula dancing, off we went.

We were taken to a local village (the sense of community is extremely strong in Samoan society, everybody gathers in the open air village hall, everybody shares in the cooking and the food), for the said dancing and to sample some local snacks and coconut milk. The kava ceremony was also performed. This is a traditional drink made from the kava root for use during special events and is seen throughout the Polynesian Islands. It looks and tastes like cold, dirty dishwater and makes your lips and tongue go numb. I have a feeling it would be illegal in many western societies and only a watered down version is given to tourists. Since you are reading this post it's proof that I survived.

By this time the day's heat and humidity were at their peak so we moved on to the Piula Cave Pool for a welcome swim and cool down. The pool is actually freshwater and is part of an old lava tube. Being a Saturday, the pool was busy with many locals picnicking and their children enjoying the water alongside the tourists.

Heading back to the ship we passed many small villages hugging the coastline, each surrounded by lush vegetation and brightly coloured flowers. Chickens, stray dogs and pigs roamed everywhere.

Before leaving home I had read that the local beer, Vailima, is not to be missed so rather than getting straight back onboard we walked a short distance along the waterfront and found a bar. We'd not eaten since breakfast so ordered a couple of bottles of the brew and a cheese toastie and a plate of chips to go with them. Very good it is too and I'll certainly add my recommendation to try it to anyone else venturing this way. The waiter who served us had also been doubling as a tour guide earlier in the day and was keen to chat to us about where we lived, where the cruise was going and what we thought of Samoa. 

Indeed, we remarked afterwards that the locals were all so welcoming, smiling, softly spoken and friendly.....wherever we went they stopped to wave as we went past. They only have around 12 cruise ships visiting each year and so the welcome did feel very genuine and not just "put on" for the benefit of the passengers and their tourist dollars.

Incidentally the author Robert Louis Stevenson enjoyed the climate and hospitality of Samoa so much that he lived out the latter part of his life here and is buried in the mountains overlooking Apia.

Then as we sailed away from the quayside the dance troupe from the mornings welcome gave another performance, this time with flaming torches.

PS..I am having trouble adding pictures to the blog so apologies if none are attached. I have a workaround but it takes an age and uses up loads of my internet time! I'll do my best to add one or two on my next post.